GILGIT: On Monday, Army Aviation helicopters initiated a critical mission to rescue two Russian climbers stranded on Gasherbrum IV (7,925m), who were attempting to retrieve the body of their deceased compatriot from the previous year.
According to Shigar Deputy Commissioner Waliullah Falahi, the helicopters successfully deposited four local high-altitude mountaineers and one Russian climber at an altitude of 6,000 meters. The rescue team is now set to attempt the challenging task of bringing down the stranded climbers, Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov, who remain at 6,400 meters, as helicopters are unable to land above 6,000 meters.
The two climbers were part of a five-member team that encountered a snow avalanche at 6,400 meters on Saturday. Following the avalanche, Sergei Nilov went missing, while Alexy Bautin and Evgeni Lablokov were uninjured and airlifted to Skardu by the army on Sunday.
There is currently no information regarding Sergei Nilov’s whereabouts. Karrar Haideri, secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, reported that the condition of the two injured climbers is “critical,” with “little hope for their survival beyond the next day.”
The rescue team is expected to reach the stranded climbers today (Tuesday) and bring them to Camp 1, where Army Aviation helicopters will then airlift them to Skardu. Bautin reported that the rescue team members are currently at 6,100 meters and will begin their ascent to reach the stranded climbers this morning.
Efforts to drop food supplies for the climbers via helicopter sling on Monday were unsuccessful, as the supplies were dropped at a distance due to operational challenges.
Tour operator Ghulam Muhammad noted that poor weather conditions prevented further helicopter operations on Sunday following the first sortie. The expedition, led by the five Russian climbers, aimed to recover the body of Dmitry Golovchenko, who went missing on the mountain in 2023.
Haideri emphasized the severe and unpredictable dangers of high-altitude mountaineering, highlighting the risks faced by even the most prepared expeditions.
